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Nov 08, 2024

How Handbag Trends Have Evolved Through the Decades

We've come a long way. Getty Images/Sezane You probably grab your go-to handbag without much of a second thought. It has all the right compartments, is big or small enough for your needs and

We've come a long way.

Getty Images/Sezane

You probably grab your go-to handbag without much of a second thought. It has all the right compartments, is big or small enough for your needs and preferences, and it securely carries all your must-have daily essentials. What you may not realize is that the handbags we use today are much improved variations from the bags of yesteryear, catered to unique modern needs (hello, cell phones) and doubling as a fashion statement—whether that’s minimalism, quiet luxury, maximalism, or beyond.

We spoke with two stylists with a background in fashion history to learn more about the full evolution of handbags over the decades. So whether you’re merely curious or are looking for some party fodder, keep reading.

Handbags may feel like a modern invention with their fancy pockets and zippered pouches, but they’ve been around for quite some time—hundreds of thousands of years, actually. The true hands-free revolution predated the runways more than 350 centuries ago, says Emily Blumenthal, a handbag expert, designer, and podcast host of Handbag Designer 101. “Dating as far back as the Old Stone Age in 38,000 BCE, fiber pouches were used to store food and tools for hunting and gathering," she says.

The next major milestone in the handbag history books arrived during the Neolithic Period, in 5300 BC, says Blumenthal. Otzi the Iceman, a well-preserved mummy of a man who lived during this time was found in the Italian Alps wearing a belt with a pouch that held his necessities. Ancient hieroglyphs were also seen of men with small drawstring pouches around their waist.

Photo by: Florilegius/Universal Images Group via Getty Images

Despite those ancient origins, women would have to patiently wait until about the 14th century for it to be socially acceptable to carry around anything visible. Predating the empowering era of pockets was the girdle pouch.

“Women had large embroidered pockets on belts beneath their skirts, accessed through slits in their dresses, like early fanny packs,” Blumenthal says. “They were then replaced by the first official clutch, created in the Victorian Era, called ‘reticules,’ and made of decorative fabric holding no more than a handkerchief and smelling salts. The bags started to get fancier with the ‘chatelaine’ in the 16th century, which was a waist bag with a series of chains with household items hanging from it.”

The reticule was a go-to through the Industrial Revolution, though it was a sleeker, more improved adaptation. This new version better matched the dresses of the time, which were becoming slimmer.

Photo by Heritage Art/Heritage Images via Getty Images

Here’s the part of history where handbags start looking a bit more like what we know and use today. It was at this time when a more modern adaptation really took off, says Lindsey Bernay, leading fashion expert and author of You Can't Leave the House Naked.

“Thanks to the manufacturing boom of the Industrial Revolution, major changes occurred in the fashion industry. Accessories started taking center stage in women’s fashion, and handbags became the crown jewel,” she says.

Blumenthal adds that the desire to own a handbag was further cemented by the increase in travel by railway and ocean, with a particular desire for high functionality and durability.

“Interestingly enough, one of the first known handbag designers for women was founded by a woman. In 1839, Harriet Jane Cave (or H.J. Cave) created the railway basket and leather trunks for travel in England,” Blumenthal says. “Not only did she develop bags made of leather and was one of the first to advertise in a magazine, but she was said to be the inspiration for Louis Vuitton and Gucci.”

Photo by Seeberger Freres/General Photographic Agency/Getty Images

By the 20th century, handbags grew in size as women became more independent. Factory workers needed sturdier, larger bags, and the high-class elite opted for the luxury version.

“Handbags were evolving into status symbols for commercialization. Department store shopping became more commonplace, leading to more independence for women, which impacted handbag design to take men's silhouettes like the satchel but give a feminine twist,” Blumenthal says. “Suffragettes wore leather shoulder bags instead of their dainty handbag chain predecessor, and handbags now had compartments for additional storage.”

Though the zipper was invented in 1913, it didn’t actually make its way into handbags until 1923 when Emile-Maurice Hermès traveled across North America and met Henry Ford. Blumenthal says Hermès filed a patent for the zipper to produce leather goods, and they created the Le Sac Pour L’Auto. This bag became known as the Hermès Bolide, the first handbag with a zipper closure.

The roaring 1920s also saw the popularity of small evening bags adorned with beads, embroidery, and metallic elements. Around this time, top-handle bags with structured frames also rose in popularity, providing a bit more function.

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A lot happened in the mid 20th century. Some key moments include Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s Noé bucket bag—designed to carry champagne bottles without breaking them—and the Hermès Sac à Dépêches (mailbag). It’d later gain fame as the "Kelly Bag" when Grace Kelly used it to conceal her pregnancy.

“After the Federal Excise Tax (FET) repeal in 1953, handbag silhouettes became more extravagant and varied, with demand for handbags skyrocketing,” Blumenthal says. “Larger, structured bags—like frame bags and satchels—returned to the forefront, reflecting the renewed post-war prosperity.”

She adds that designers also embraced luxurious materials, including crocodile, snakeskin, and ostrich, and experimented with bold and vibrant designs. It was also around this time when the now iconic Chanel 2.55 introduced a quilted silhouette with chain straps.

“New materials like Lucite and plastic allowed for playful, boxy shapes in casual handbags, while soft, oversized silhouettes also gained popularity for their fashionable yet functional appeal,” Blumenthal says. “Straw and raffia were imported and added to a new basket bag silhouette. This period marked the return of creativity and opulence in handbag design, emphasizing unique shapes, silhouettes, and vibrant colors.”

In the ‘60s, fashion also saw more self-expression and the use of “space age” materials like PVC, polyurethane, ballistic nylon, velcro, and kevlar. Hippie favorites included fringed suede, hand-tooled leather, macrame, and tote-like shoulder bags.

Photo by Jayne Fincher/Getty Images

Things started changing at a rapid pace moving into the ‘70s and through the new millenia. “Thanks to the disco-dazzling aesthetic of the 1970s, bohemian fashion took the spotlight. Handbags were crafted in fabrics such as rich suede and leather, and Studio 54 saw the iconic Whiting and Davis mesh clutches,” Bernay says. “The 1980s embraced maximalist style with a focus on designer labels. The famous interlocking CC of Chanel became a fashion staple, as well as Prada’s nylon bags.”

She adds that in the 1990s, fashion coveted an “It-bag”—perhaps thanks to Sex and the City’s Fendi Baguette sported by Carrie Bradshaw. Bernay says that at this time, Prada backpacks were also introduced as a functional and chic alternative to carrying a purse, and Louis Vuitton’s signature logo print became a luxury handbag staple, perfect for work or weekend.

Another iconic bag moment: The Lady Dior named after Princess Diana, which became a symbol of royalty and elegance. First worn by Lady Di in 1995, it was renamed the “Lady Dior” after she showcased it, in blue, at the 1996 MET Gala. “The Lady Dior bag comes in many shapes and colors, and proves to be a truly spectacular addition to your closet,” Bernay says.

Photo by Raimonda Kulikauskiene/Getty Images

Flash forward to the 2020s and we can pinpoint a few key influences for handbags. The pandemic certainly reshaped our priorities with a deeper appreciation for ease and comfort across the spectrum—even in fashion. “Soft, cushy pillow bags in rich leather like the MZ Wallace Crosby Hobo provide an emotional-support blanket feel," Bernay says.

There’s also a certain downsizing trend happening right now, with people ditching wallets entirely and instead opting for teeny-weeny, minimalist bags. Some companies, like Bandolier, even create purses designed specifically to accommodate today’s most ubiquitous must-have: cell phones.

Bernay says that along with these trends, she can see handbag trends moving towards sustainable innovation, as well as designers experimenting with repurposed materials and variations on eco-friendly luxury—like The Claude Bag by Sezane. “The handbag icons will persist, but designers will continue exploring new, innovative ways to create the next generation of iconic pieces," she says.